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Digital Sensor Thermometer

The TMP275 is a 0.5°C accurate, Two-Wire, serial output temperature sensor available in an MSOP-8 or an SO-8 package. The TMP275 is capable of reading temperatures with a resolution of 0.0625°C. The TMP275 is SMBus-compatible and allows up to eight devices on one bus. It is ideal for extended temperature measurement in a variety of communication, computer, consumer, environmental, industrial, and instrumentation applications. The TMP275 is specified for operation over a temperature range of −40°C to +125°C.

The easiest way to get the temperature out of the TMP275 seemed to be I2C. So I started by designing a board which has all the components needed: the sensor, an atmega8 brain, and some other components needed for the display and for powering the board. The display is a 4 digit 7 segment display from kingbright product code CA56-12GWA. As for the display part of the board, I used PNP transistors on the common anodes and resistors on the segments to limit the current draw on the atmega’s pins. The transistors are not current limited so the display will alaways light-up the same no matter how many segments are turned on.
For the supply part of the board, I choose to make it portable and power it from a 9V battery, so I needed to use a voltage regulator. The choice was the good old 7805 because it’s cheap and easy to find.

I2C is a pretty common protocol so various libraries can be found on the web. I chose Peter Fleury’s I2C library because it was very well documented. The only external components needed by the TMP275 are a bypass capacitor between VCC and GND and two pull-up resistors required on SDA and SCL lines.

All the I2C stuff is handled by the library, so I only had to write a couple of lines of code to get the temperature out of the sensor:
i2c_start_wait(sensor+I2C_WRITE); // set device address and write mode
i2c_write(0x0); // write pointer register 00000000 to select temp register
i2c_rep_start(sensor+I2C_READ); //set device address and read mode
temp_high=i2c_readAck(); // Read high byte of temperature
temp_low=i2c_readNak(); // Read low byte of temperature
After reading the temperature from the sensor I had to display it on the 4 digit display. For that I had to write a display macro, which figures out the numbers and how to display them, basically I used software multiplexing. I even tested it on negative temperatures by placing the sensor in my fridge :) . The readout was correct because I checked with another thermometer.

These new type of digital sensors are great, because you don’t have to worry about analog to digital conversion, all the ADC is done inside the sensor. I mainly started working with this sensor because I want to incorporate a temperature reading function into a future project. Now that this part is done, is time to move onto the next one, ultrasonic range finder, which I’m guessing wont be as easy as the temperature reading.

I tried to comment every line of my code, but if you feel you don’t understand something, just post a comment and I’ll reply.

Download :
Source : YourTronic

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Buzzer Water Level

Buzzer Water Level

If you want to control the level of a water tank instead of connecting the V + and the collector of the transistor (Q2) at the buzzer is connected directly to a solenoid valve. And so every time you make contact electrodes by closing the valve.








Schematic
Original Source : Tektronico

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Audio Generator Of Bells Ringing

Overview
The circuit was designed similarly with door bell units as it generates an audio of bells ringing with dual tones.

Terminology
  • MC14106 – a hex Schmitt trigger constructed with MOS P-channel and N-channel enhancement mode devices in a single monolithic structure primarily used where low power dissipation and/or high noise immunity is desired due to its features of capability of driving two low-power TTL loads or one low-power Schottky TTL load, 3V to 18Vdc supply voltage range, and increased hysteresis voltage
  • BC337 – a small signal NPN Silicon AF medium power transistor used for general purpose switching and amplifying applications with features such as TO-18 manufactured package, suited for AF driver stages and low power output stages, and divided into three group types
  • Photoresistor – a resistor made up of high resistance semiconductor and whose resistance decreases with the increasing incident light intensity

Circuit Explanation
There are several applications by which this circuit can be used other than being a door bell. The common thing as compared with an ordinary door bell is that it produces a “ding” tone when the SPST push button switch P1 is pressed while a “dong” tone is created when P1 is released. The first tone is being generated by IC1D while the second tone is generated by IC1F. The shaping and fading of two tones are being controlled by Q2, Q5, and other related components while trying to replicate the natural sound of bells as close as possible.

The outputs are being mixed using resistors R7 & R13 and while being filtered by capacitor C5. In order to drive the loudspeaker, the outputs are being amplified by a simple Class A audio amplifier which is made up of Q3 & Q4. As the switch P1 is pressed, Q1 switches ON the amplifier then switches OFF after some seconds of releasing P1. The time delay is made possible by the parallel RC network from R2 & C1. A negligible current will be drawn at this stage when held in standby mode.

To create a “ding-dong” sound regardless of the release of P1, the circuit should be modified by removing D4 while the time delay between the first tone and second tone is arranged using C10 & R15. There is also a possibility of producing a single tone generator by doing more modifications on the circuit. The switch S1 can be excluded since the current being drawn at standby mode is 200 uA at 3 V, when in standby mode. The frequency of the tones is better set at approximately 2 KHz and 1650 Hz.

Application
One good application of this ringing bells generator is during Christmas where a soft bell sound can be heard at the switching ON and OFF of the chosen bulbs. This can only happen if a photoresistor is used in the place of P1 then placing the unit near the flashing lamps of the Christmas tree. A better way is to synchronize the circuit on the lights of the Christmas tree.

Schematic
Part List
Source:redcircuits.com/Page37.htm

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The LYNX 150 Watt Bi-Polar Power Amplifier

The LYNX v3.0 150 Watt Bi-Polar Power Amplifier - using Three Deep Darlington (TDD) Output Circuit.

The Design
Let me start by pointing out, that LYNX project from the beginning in 2002 had only one goal!
To create a rock-solid and powerful sonic Power Amplifier like those used in studio's.........
So if you are fond of the deceased mighty and "muscular" power amps from Phase Linear, SAE, GAS, Dynaco and similar ones, and if you like listening to live recorded LP's and CD's, you may be intrigued by this project as the result is very close to those.

Components
Components shown in the schematics are only suggestions. The circuit has shown good characteristics and produced good and clear sound when build with very low cost components. So with this circuit you have the possibility to either build a low cost dynamic Power Amplifier or a Studio Class Power Amplifier.
LYNX v3.0 Downloads
Schematic
PCB Component side
PCB Solder side
Quick Assembly Guide

Disclaimer
The LYNX circuit and PCB layout provided here is only for non-commercial diy build and use!
You are allowed to make your own PCBs for personal use, but please accept that in that case I do not provide any support! You are not allowed to make and sell copy PCBs!

Buy LYNX PCBs
You are able to purchase the new v3.01 LYNX PCBs at my webshop here:
www.audio-innovation.eu

Source : http://www.audio-circuit.dk/

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How To Make PCBs

First thing to do is make a schematic in EAGLE Layout Editor. Once you have done this you can then design the layout using Eagle too. Making schematic first helps because Eagle will show you clearly if you make any mistakes with the PCB.

Here is an example I will use, it is the prototype line stage used in my preamp:

Print it out onto some semi glossy photo paper. Be sure to select "solid black" in the eagle printing preferences and also un-select silk screen layers so that you only see pads and traces:

Then quickly take this paper, cut out your design and place it face down onto some blank PCB board. Then use an iron and press the design on to the board. Use A LOT of pressure and ensure all parts of the design make good contact with the blank PCB. Keep it pressed for at least 5 mins. I have found that having steam on/off makes no difference.

Then take your blank PCB with the design stuck on to it and soak it in soapy water for about 10 mins to loosen the paper:


Then CAREFULLY remove the paper. Be sure not to remove any of the black ink traces because these are what stops the acid in the etching process. I use a kind of rubbing motion to remove the paper. Keep it wet all the time so that it separates easily from the copper board.


Done and ready for etching:

Get some etchant and just follow the instructions for the dilution level. I just use a normal ceremic or glass bowel. Ghetto style:

Add boiling water from a jug:

And slowly swirl or rock the bowl around. The liquid must be always moving over the copper board to get it to etch properly.


Done!

Now give it a rinse in cold water and scrub the black ink off the PCB with a scratchy dish cleaner thing or steel wool.
Voila, you have a custom designed PCB:

Then all you need to do is drill out the holes and start mounting the components:

It will take maybe a couple of tries to get the hang of it but once you've got it you can produce perfect PCBs every time.
Tips for making PCBs:
Another guide like mine:
Some points to note:
  • You can't do it with Inkjet printers, the ink doesn't stick, don't bother trying.
  • OKI LED and regular laser printers work well.
  • I have only used matt photo paper and have always had perfect results, although glossy would probably work too. Otherwise you will have to experiment.
  • Once the design is stuck to the PCB put a blank piece of paper over the design and then rub and twist the iron while pressing the print on the PCB. This gives better coverage and makes sure it sticks on all parts of the PCB.
Here is some pics of another design I made (the soft-power circuit in my preamp):


Source :
http://nospecifictopic.blogspot.com/2005/06/how-to-make-pcbs.html

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Digital Sensor Thermometer


Buzzer Water Level


Audio Generator Of Bells Ringing


The LYNX 150 Watt Bi-Polar Power Amplifier


How To Make PCBs